Retrospective is funny old thing.  When deciding on where to go, obviously thinking that our first day out winter climbing would be spent in Beinn A’Bhuird is retrospectively not the best choice.  It is one of the most remote places in the UK, under alot of soft fresh snow.  Still we never really thought about that, I was just keen on going some where new.

After cycling  and walking we finally go to the bottom of the route we came to climb ‘ Slab and Arete’ after 4 hours!  It was probably the longest walk in I have ever done.  Don’t get me wrong, it was a stunning day and the place was beautiful – just quite hard going for the first winter outing with heavy bags full of ‘stuff’.  We decided that eating lunch at the bottom was a good idea, this is were I found out I had left my lunch on the front seat of the van.  A few choice swear words and a grumbly stomach and we set off up the climb.

It was rather more than the guide book suggested and with a few alterations and swearing we got up it, not the conventional route but was plenty interesting and gave a really enjoyable climb.

We got to the Top around 4:15pm just as the sun was setting. What ensued is a long walk back to the bikes in the darkness across the top of Beinn A’Bhuird with amazing views of the sun setting all around us, we could see for miles. It was a pretty clear night so we managed most of it with out head torches, when we got back to the bikes we had a brilliant decent back down the snowy icy path slip sliding our way down.  Amazingly all of us staying upright.

A great day out albeit a long one, nothing like breaking us in gently!  Scottish hills were a great place to be that day!  All the rest of the pictures can be seen by clicking here

Andy, Scott and I decided to go and have a wee looksie on the off  chance that it might be ok to go climbing in Lochnagar.  The weather forecast was not the most encouraging but as ever they are not always correct and I am one for ‘giving it a go’ just in case Mr weather has not got his ducks in a row.

We set off on bikes again from the car park, it was already snowing pretty heavily on the way up making it a little harder than normal on the bikes having to ride through snow.  All the time thinking…. skis – where the hell are my skis! We dumped the bikes a bit lower than normal due to the path being proper ice rink like with sheet ice all over it.  As we got higher up the weather got worse and worse,  it wasn’t particularly cold in the snow but rather wet and we were slowly getting wetter and wetter

Andy above.  As we got closer to the Meikle Pap col, the weather was getting wilder and we all kind of gave each other that look, the ” seriously this sucks” look.  After much discussion which went something like this ” this is shit, lets go to the pub – ok, ok” we turned back and decided it was not to be that day.  The idea of climbing in this weather appealed to none of us!

The look of three blokes who decided to go to the pub!  On the way back down Scott was reliving a story of when he scissored kicked walking down there and landed on his arse.  Just as he said it he re-enacted it just for us, was so funny, through laughter Andy ended up doing the same.  I was nearly crying with tears whilst the two of them scrabbled around on the floor trying to stand back up

We got back to the bikes and by now a fair bit of snow had fallen making the ride back down slippy slidy fun!  When we reached the bottom riding in the Glen it was proper horrible.  The wind and snow was coming straight down off the hill and smacking you full force making it hard to ride the bikes.

Once back at the can we all agreed it was a good decision and all that was to decide now was which pub to go to……

Normally over the past few years I have just done the one winter route.  But with limited snow about for skiing it was decided to go and do another climb.  Lochnagar was the chosen destination, meeting in the car park at 8, we had brought the bikes to shorten the now hated long walk in.

Above Andy and Rich on the bikes.  The bikes were a great idea until we got half way up the steep bit and the track turned a bit icy and the bikes had to be ditched a earlier than thought.

Once into the corrie itself it became evident that there was not much to go at as all East facing parts were pretty much dry of snow, so we had two options, Raeburn’s gully or the old favourite Black spout.

We start up raeburns and by the time we got to the first belay it was evident that it would be a very slow day in the gully as there were many teams in front of us.  After a team talk it was decided that Black spout was the way forward, it was Rich’s first winter climb, and in fact first time climbing outside of any description so decided to play it safe and not try and give the poor guy a day filled with pure fear.  At the bottom Rich, Chris and I roped up to give Rich a bit more security and made our way up black spout.  The left branch is always a bit steeper and more interesting so we headed up there.

Half way up the left branch there is another little bit we can veer off on called ‘Crumbling Cranny’ grade II which we decided would make things even more interesting, off we went. Chris took the lead for the one pitch and make light work of it and the soft cornice.

rich looking happy to out and about in the hills enjoying the Scottish hills in the winter. I belayed Chris whilst Rich was educated in how it all works.

This was obviously not he best way to demonstrate it, but i think he got the jist! Chris made it look easy with some sparse gear placement, but no overall fretting, crying, screaming or anything remotely funny we could later poke fun at him for.

Rich climbing through his first cornice (never fun) and his look of happiness as he stuck his head up over the top into the sunshine.  The boy did good, again with no crying, screaming or anything we could later use as ammo.

A great day relaxed climbing in lovely conditions.  I think Rich will be lulled into a false sense of expectations to always go out in sun and soft winds in the winter.

and of course there was the gun show at the top!!!!!!!  No climb is complete without one of these. the view from the top was brilliant, the Northern Cairngorms looked to have loads more snow than where we were, suppose it is an easy decision to make as to were we go next weekend!

I usually by tradition get one winter climbing route in per season (as I mainly go skiing).  The chance came early this year to get out and go climbing, thought I might as well get it out of the way early this year!

I got up early and drove to Aviemore and met Andy and Monica and set off with everyone else into the Northern Corries.  We decided on Jacobs Ladder, and easy climb but in lean conditions it was in was more interesting than a boring snow gully.  A nice easy break into winter climbing.

Above – Andy and monica at the start of the Climb.  We just wondered up it till it got steaper then got a rope up and roped up to move together.

  There was no fear or abundant swearing at ones choices of a stupid pastime.  It was pleasant social climbing, I could do more than one route like this a year! 

The obligatory up nostril shot!  I am thinking  I might grow a beard this winter, there is a lot of snow around and looks like I will be out a lot hopefully so to keep my delicate chin warm! 

Nearer the top it was not banked out so the normal easy snow exit was not present, instead a bit more of an interesting hoared up rock exit was taken

Getting onto the plateau on top was lovely, the sun was shining, the wind had dropped and it was jsut great.  Neither monica or I for that matter had cried, sworn or thrown hissy fits!  RESULT!!!

This is the last day of their honeymoon, I love it, I can forever say I was on their honeymoon!!!!!

the now classic and obligatory gun show picture!  What men we are!!!!!!!