Afterthought arete – Stag Rocks

With our successful climb on fingers ridge under our belts, Lara and I were both keen to try and get another mountain route in before the baby bump is too big and climbing comes a no go zone.  So looking for more classic easy mountain lines we chose ‘Afterthought Arete’ A 150m Mod on Stag Rock next to Loch Avon in the Cairngorms.  Matt and Emma were keen as well so we headed off to Aviemore on Saturday night.  Poor Scott looked sad to be left behind but ‘sicknote’ (as he is now called until he is fixed) was in no state to come climbing.

We met M&E for a few pints in Aviemore before we drove up to the ski station to sleep in the car park and hit the sleeping bags for a good day the next day – and it was to be a good day!

So up and out, managed a fast walk in to Sneachda and up goat track gully we went.  I had never been up on the Cairngorm platform properly in the summer, I had only been up there in winter when it was white outs after climbing or on skies in awesome blue bird days.  Was great to see what was under the snow.

As we walked down into The Loch Avon basin, I was amazed at how pretty it was, have ski’ed past it a few times in the winter, but in the summer it was very impressive lovely to be in.  We traversed around the bottom of the Crag and got to the bottom of the route. 

 Lara and I were to climb first and M&E after us,  It was to be Emma’s first trad multi pitch route so there were a few demons in her head to contend with at the bottom. 

The lower climbing was a Little stiff i thought for the grade, it is supposed to be a complete walk, but the guide book does warn the direct start is harder and I think i went up this unknowingly.  Emma followed up after me confirming that it was not just me!  Thank god!

Lara at the First belay.  From here the arete was brilliant climbing, nothing hard, but enough exposure to focus the mind

From here on up the climbing was easy and was again lovely to be climbing in the mountains in great weather.  I even think I got a bit of a watch tan!  We had another 3 pitches to the top which pasted with no difficulty and some lovely climbing,  a few moments of self dialogue to keep me going when I was unsure and my mind started the ‘What if’s’.

Once at the top it was time to don the mighty rucksack once again (remember Lara is pregnant so is not allowed to carry anything – a very lucky thing for her!).  We walked back across the plateau and down the Coire Cas ridge back to the van.  A great day out, lovely weather and climbing.  Emma did great for her first multi pitch trad route and is eager for more!

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